Finger Food: Summer Rolls

Just what is it about summertime and eating with our hands? Maybe it's part of the general informality of the season - wearing fewer clothes, going barefoot, having meals outdoors, roasting things over the campfire. Eschewing utensils, we use our hands to hold corn on the cob, burgers and dogs, chips and dip, cookies, watermelon slices, and drippy stone fruit. The garden hose (or lake, or sea) is right there for rinsing off and it just feels right to engage with our food like this in the summertime.

And though we may be sandy and sweaty and sticky, I also enjoy the fact that there is more personal touch this time of year. Playing with the kids in the lake, their knobby knees and pointy little toes digging into my legs and back... running around kicking the soccer ball and slamming into each other on the grass... jostling to pick berries and smearing the over-ripe ones on each other's cheeks... holding hands as we tramp through the forest in search of wild treasures. No mittens or gloves or long sleeves and pants to separate us from each other. Just sun-kissed, mosquito-bitten, epidermis on epidermis.

Likewise, whether you all gather at the kitchen table or set up the fixings out on the deck, summer rolls are best enjoyed as a full-contact activity. 'Cause where's the fun if someone just presents you with a platter of them, ready-made? For children, there are carrots to be shredded, herbs and greens to be picked and torn apart, bean thread noodles to be cut up with scissors...and then there is the actual spring roll making. Even for the youngest kids unable to roll them up while still keeping the filling inside, there is dipping to be done. From experience, I can vouch for the hygienic and aesthetic benefits of setting out individual bowls of peanut sauce. :-)



Ready to roll...



... now dip!



The making of summer rolls (or spring rolls, as we like to call them the rest of the year) isn't rocket science, but it can be frustrating for the perfectionists among us. As someone who often overstuffs, the approach I've developed is to just relax and eat them as they tear (and many will). That way when all is said and done, you have a full tummy and a plate of beautiful summer rolls to share with a friend or enjoy the next day.

A few technical points of note:

Depending on where you live, these might be hanging out in the Asian foods aisle at the supermarket!

The spring roll wrappers are quite stiff out of the package, but as they are basically just rice starch, slipping them individually into a cake pan or baking sheet filled partway with warm water softens them up in a few seconds. Likewise, the bean thread noodles, which are made from mung bean starch, become soft enough to use shortly after you've poured boiling water over them.

The basic method is to set out all the ingredients ready in little bowls, including the drained noodles. Then you boil a kettle of water and set it out near the cake pan or baking sheet so that as people are busy filling and rolling, a new wrapper is always ready for the next round. You can make a bunch and then eat, or you can make and eat as you go. It can be quite a messy process, with tofu chunks falling into the bowl of carrots, bean thread noodles flying everywhere, and participants crowding each other to get what they need from the bowls.

One person will surely emerge as the designated 'wrapper', as this is a specialized task and ultimately, people won't want to have their rolls break every time. But it may surprise you who turns out to be the most naturally gifted - at our house it's the 7-year-old who exercises the most restraint when filling and therefore never tears her wrappers. The other key to wrap fairly tightly, but not so tight as to force the filling to puncture the wrapper. Loosey-goosey wrapping will result in a noodle salad explosion; it's best to keep several forks handy for this possibility.

When you've run out of ingredients or stuffed yourselves to the point where you can't look another spring roll wrapper in the eye, it's time to abandon the whole mess and go play badminton. Rock paper scissors determines who does dishes!

Fresh Summer Rolls

• 1 package spring roll wrappers
• 1/2 pound of firm tofu, diced into 1/2" cubes
• 2 tbsp Braggs liquid aminos, soy sauce, or Soyaki sauce
• 1 bundle mung bean thread noodles, soaked in hot water and drained according to pkg directions
• 1/2 cup fresh herbs/edible flowers, such as cilantro, Italian or Thai basil, mint, lemon balm, nasturtiums - a mixture is nice
• 2 cups torn salad greens, any type
• 2 medium carrots, shredded
• 1/2 cup peanuts, chopped finely
• 1 lime, cut into wedges

Peanut Dipping Sauce

• 4 tbsp natural peanut butter
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 tbsp Braggs or soy sauce
• 1 tsp sugar
• juice of 1/2 lime
• 1 tsp grated fresh ginger

To make the sauce, heat peanut butter and water together in a microwavable glass measuring cup for about 30 seconds, or in a small pot on the stove, until they can be easily stirred together. Add the other ingredients and mix well. Taste and add more of any ingredients it may need (this part is highly personal and I cannot tell you whether you like your peanut sauce sweeter or more tart, just as I cannot guess your preference for creamy or crunchy peanut butter. For the record, I prefer crunchy but am overruled in the house, so creamy I must use). Also, do add more water if needed - the goal is to have a sauce that's not too thick, because it will be harder to dip your spring roll that way.

Jer gan mai! (I'm not entirely sure if spring/summer rolls are considered Vietnamese or Thai, but this is one of the few Thai phrases that has stuck with me over the years - it means, see you later!)

Rat-tat-a-touille!




It’s 8:30 at night and I’ve just returned from work. There’s chicken juice inside my watchband, roast beef blood on my shoes and liverwurst bits down my shirt. But despite all that meaty nastiness (sorry, carnivores) I’m super hungry and have been ever since a tough workout early this morning. I see leftover oatmeal on the stove – the finale of a ‘backwards food day’ where dad fed the kids lunch for breakfast, dinner for lunch, and breakfast for dinner – but oatmeal just isn’t going to do the job.

So right now I’m thinking: it’s time to cook up a storm. A quick, tasty mess before I collapse for the night. Have you ever seen the PBS kids’ cartoon ‘Word World’? There’s this great little chant they always sing when it’s time to make a new word. “It’s time to build a word, let’s build it, let’s build it now!” Well, that’s the song in my head at this moment. “It’s time to make some food, let’s make it, let’s make it now!”

Between our own garden and the neighbor's farmstand down the road, our kitchen is brimming with  vegetables - squash, beans, garlic, peppers, onions and tomatoes. With this in mind, what I’m aiming for tonight is a fast, easy ratatouille.

Ah, ratatouille: the simple vegetable stew that is invariably the only vegetarian-friendly item I can find to eat at fancy French restaurants. Well, there is also the cheese soufflé, but that dish always reminds me of a story for another day, one that involves the Champs Élysées on New Years' Eve, a tiny table squeezed next to a swinging kitchen door, a large statue against which people were throwing full bottles of champagne, and a bunch of drunk U.S. Marines, one of whom decided to steal a kiss and got punched for his audacity. Like I said, a story for another day. Besides, not being a big egg-lover, I'm not such a fan of cheese soufflés.

Anyway, by now I know how I like my ratatouille. I don't use the typical eggplant (I'm a weird vegetarian that way; I hate both eggplants and mushrooms). Also, my version it isn’t strictly French. French Mediterranean perhaps, with a nod to North Africa from the chickpeas and green olives, and sometimes there is an Italian flair, depending on what cheese I throw on top and whether I serve it over pasta. Tonight, after I’ve enjoyed this hearty veggie stew with a little parm grated on top, a crusty slice of bread, and a full-bodied glass of red wine, I know I’ll go to bed satisfied.

Note: The main thing which makes this veggie stew 'ratatouille' is basically the use of herbes de provence. Herbes de provence may not be something you’ll find in the spice aisle at your typical grocery store, but it’s worth a look. You could order it from Penzey’s and any French bakery might have some bags piled on a shelf near the back. To me, herbes de provence tastes quintessentially French. The hint of lavender, maybe? Or is it the savory? I first encountered this mixture years ago in Belgium when a friend’s father threw a several teaspoons into a thick soup meant to satisfy a hungry vegetarian backpacker. I was instantly hooked.

Not-So-Classic Ratatouille

Saute for about 5 minutes on medium heat in a large skillet:

• olive oil
• 1 onion, rough chop
• 1 bell pepper, rough chop
• 1 clove garlic, minced

Add and cook 5 minutes more:

• a handful of haricot verts (small green beans), topped - if using larger beans, remove strings and break in half
• a heaping tablespoon herbes de provence, ground finely with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder
• 3 large tomatoes, chopped - even better, a 15-oz can whole tomatoes in juice, broken up with your hands or roughly cut with kitchen shears
• 1 medium zucchini, rough chop
• 1 medium yellow squash, rough chop

Stir in, then cover and turn heat to low, cooking for an additional 5 minutes:

• a 15-oz can chick peas, drained and rinsed
• ½ cup green olives, pitted and sliced
• salt and pepper to taste

To serve, sprinkle with cheese - grated Gruyere or parmesan reggiano. Have some good bread on hand for mopping it up. Ratatouille is good served the next day at room temp or even a bit chilled. It's also nice alongside or stuffed into an omelette if you're trying to hide the egg taste. :-) Bon appétit!

And to close, a few action photos highlighting our summer fun as of late...



Watch me Mommy! Are you watching? Watch me!!!

 

Our one-time scaredy-cat now loves dogs, go figure. And chickens.



Attempting some Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon action...minus the computer hocus pocus.

Making connections

I've been having some great conversations with strangers lately. I often make it a point to talk with people I don't know in the hopes of learning something new (which often happens) or just making a positive connection to brighten up the day (which it often does). I'm convinced that in direct contrast to our overly busy, self-centered, technology-driven lives, making even the smallest of personal connections can help bring about peace and harmony to the planet. And it's way more exciting than online gaming, if you ask me. :-)

The other day it was a precocious 12-year-old playing with his mother's iPhone. While I had my lunch break on the patio at work, he eagerly explained to me about what apps are and what kinds of things he does with his own iTouch when he's not in school or doing homework. He also shared with me at length what he knew about elementary and middle school sports for kids in our area, and which teachers were the best at one of the local schools. All of that information will surely come in handy one of these days, and when we parted ways it was with a big smile and wave.

This morning, as with many others, I ended up chatting for a bit with a passerby while I secured my kayak to the top of the car. This older lady turned out to be a Harvard medical researcher, recently out of work and enjoying her free time playing at the lake with her grand-dog (did not know there was such a thing but there you go). Our conversation explored city vs. rural life, preventive medicine, the importance of doing something you love every single day, and the virtues of pursuing your vocation, no matter how old you may be. The very topics that have been on my mind lately...I drove home feeling renewed inspiration for my path and the motivation to write this post.

So today I encourage you, take a risk and smile at a stranger today. Force yourself to ask them a question to get the conversation rolling. (Nothing too personal, please.) Be willing to answer their questions with more than a simple yes or no. And get ready for your day to become just a little brighter!



Props to my honey for this gorgeous picture of one of our favorite local ponds!



Gazpacho Soup, etc.

In truth - 'cause that's what it's all about, right? - it feels pretty hard to blog this week. Lately I find myself swinging between huge waves of gratitude for all that's well with life, to fairly major feelings of uncertainty and overwhelm. The effects are enervating. All I want to do when I get home in the evening is just lie on the rug with my eyes closed, preferably in silence. Which is pretty hard to come by at our house. And besides, somebody still needs to make dinner.

As for me, the appetite is gone for now, which takes all the fun out of cooking. So this week it's been what I call 'survival cooking' - meals that meet the basic requirements of nutrition and good taste, but nothing approaching the rarefied echelons of what my stepson calls 'a vacation for your mouth.' Oh, he is a funny guy.



So much to be grateful for...if only I can stay focused on it.

Well, perhaps there are some folks reading this who don't feel so much like cooking either. Maybe they would appreciate a few ideas for what to make in 15 minutes or less. After all, at this time of year it is usually well over 105 degrees where I come from and God knows that is no time to be slaving away in the kitchen! So here is a sample offering and then I'm going to force myself to get back on the bicycle. (I do mean that literally - even my triathalon training is taking a hit lately and I really need to get it together if I'm not going to embarrass myself next month!)

Tican platter (oh, to be back in Costa Rica living a carefree existence right now!) - brown rice, refried pinto beans, saute of summer squashes, garlic, onions. Garnished with diced tomato, avocado and lime.

Chips 'n dip (yes, I served my children tortilla chips for dinner) - 1/2 jar salsa, 1 drained can of mashed kidney beans, corn scraped from 1 cob, 1 diced avocado, lime juice, 1/2 cup shredded fresh spinach and some shredded sharp cheddar cheese stirred in.

Cucumber yogurt soup - In a food processor, puree 2 peeled, seeded, chopped cucumbers, 4 cups plain yogurt, 1 pressed garlic clove, a couple spoonfuls of olive oil and a handful of fresh dill and another of fresh mint. Divine. We ate it with a simple spinach salad and garlic toast.

Gazpacho - an approximate recipe is below, since I can't seem to find the basic one I usually start off with right now. I served it with grilled sandwiches stuffed with fresh basil, goat cheese, sauteed onions and zucchini. The kids barely managed choke this meal down but it could have been b/c we ate it at the lake and they were distracted by fun. Next time I'm going to sneak some cannelini beans into the soup and see if anyone notices...

Basic Gazpacho Soup (a traditional version, with bread)

• 1 slice stale artisan bread, soaked in water to cover
• 8 medium tomatoes, chopped
• 2 medium cucumbers, peeled, seeded, chopped
• 1 yellow onion
• 1 stalk celery, sliced
• 1 bell pepper, any color, seeded, chopped
• 2 small cloves garlic
• handful basil leaves
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 4 tbsp balsalmic vinegar
• 1 tsp lemon juice
• salt and pepper to taste

Dump all ingredients in a large food processor and puree for several minutes until relatively smooth.

Garnish with diced avocado, tiny croutons, fresh herbs, etc.



Celebrating Thumbelina's birthday - thank God for children and their natural joyfulness!



Tamales in the 'Shire

Ever feel like you're just hanging around, waiting to see what will happen next in your life? Things aren't necessarily bad, but the whole time you're walking around with this queasy feeling - you can almost sense that a big change is coming and you're not sure if it'll be for the good. Or maybe your life looks kind of like this:

Plenty of room for the wind to blow through, but at least the roof's still on!

And then one day you wake up to find that it now looks like this:



Buh-bye.


Well, maybe I'm over-dramatizing. At least, that's a picture of what life has felt like the past few days, whenever I allowed myself think about things. You know, it's true what they say: thinking is highly overrated.

As usual, I turned to food to take my mind off the harder stuff. Tamales, specifically. And hibiscus tea, but more on that later. Tamales always make me think of my hometown. I'm actually not sure why, since I don't think we really ate them very often growing up, and we definitely didn't make them. But plenty of people did, and sold them frozen by the bag. I bet they still do.

My tamales are always an improvisation. I basically follow the directions on the side of the Maseca bag, but I don't use lard, and I don't fill them with shredded pork. The filling just depends on what I've got lying around the house, and this time, I filled them with....drumroll please... collard greens! And sharp cheddar cheese and pickled jalapenos and carrots. And they were AMAZING!!!

I brought them to a meeting of Dining For Women and the ladies were very pleased. I also made some garlicky black beans in the pressure cooker to spoon over the tamales. Added some avocado, and I'm pretty sure we achieved Mexican food bliss.

Here's how I made them, along with some step-by-step photos since the side of the Maseca bag doesn't include pictures.

Tamales for about 8-10 people:

If you're going to make the same filling I made, the first thing to do is cook the collard greens. Wash them, cut into smallish pieces, then dump into a medium pot with about 2 inches of water in the bottom. Cover, bring to a boil and simmer about 45 minutes. This step is best done ahead of time and here is a warning: while they cook your house will smell a bit like wet dog.

Take a bag of dry corn husks (found in a Mexican grocery) and soak the husks in water in a large bowl. There are usually around 16 husks. While they soak, prepare the tamales.

Mix well:

• 4 cups Maseca or other brand of tamale flour (it's made from corn soaked in lime)
• 2 tsp baking powder
• 1 tsp salt

Pour in and mix with a spatula or your hands (traditional) to make a soft dough:

• 4 cups lukewarm vegetable broth

In a separate bowl, beat until creamy:

• 1 cup softened butter
• 1/3 cup canola oil

Add the butter mixture to the flour mixture and beat until it's fully incorporated. Set the bowl aside while you finish the filling. To make the filling, you will need the collard greens, plus:

• 2 garlic cloves, pressed
• 1 pound shredded extra sharp cheddar cheese
• 1 small can pickled jalapenos, drained

In a medium skillet, saute the garlic in a bit of olive or canola oil for a minute on medium-low heat:

Add the pre-cooked collard greens (drained well) and stir well with the garlic. Add about 1/4 tsp salt. Cook for about 5-10 minutes until it smells good. Set aside to cool briefly.

Shred the cheese. I like to do this with the food processor to speed things along. Actually, what I do is first puree the jalepenos in the processor, then I just add the cheese a few chunks at a time until it's all shredded.

Remove the cheese from the processor and mix it in a large bowl with the collard greens.

Take a corn husk and lay it down flat. Spoon out maybe 1/3 cup of tamale dough and press down into the center of the husk. Take a large spoonful of filling and flatten it out down the middle. Looks like this:

Take about 1/4 cup of tamale dough and press onto the top of the filling to cover it. Begin to fold the corn husk up on the sides to shape the dough so it will seal in the filling, like this:

Like putting on a baby's diaper. Minus the screaming.

Fold up the sides, then the top and bottom of the corn husk. It will not want to stay closed, so hold it all together with your fingers until you can lay it folded side down in the pot. The pot should be wide, have about an inch of water in the bottom, and have a stainless steel strainer or ideally, one of those collapsible steel vegetable steamers in the bottom so that the tamales won't fall into the water. If you don't have a lid, you will need to use aluminum foil to seal in the steam. Repeat the steps above to make each tamale and keep layering them in the pot (or use two pots if you run out of room) until all the dough and filling is gone.



To bed you go, my sweets!



Turn the heat to high so that the water comes to a boil, then turn down to low with the cover on. The tamales should steam for at least 1-1/2 hours, but I usually do 2 hours since it's a large batch.

Note: When you take them out, the tamales will be very hot. Also, if you try to eat them right away, they will want to fall apart. It's far more satisfying, if you can control yourself, to let them rest for about a half hour in the husks, and then when you open them up the little bundles will be nicely firm and are sure to impress those lucky enough to be dining with you!

And finally, the beverage - hibiscus tea. At least that's what I've always called it - though the label says "Flor de Jamaica" and the tea, which is tart and quite red, bears a very close resemblence to a sweetened drink I enjoyed while traveling in Francophone West Africa (Burkina, Cote d'Ivoire, etc.). That drink was called "bissap", apparently from the bissap flower, whatever that is. Another close cousin to this drink is one that is served hot and highly sweetened in Egypt, where it is actually called hibiscus tea.

Hey, wait! Stop the presses! I looked up bissap on wikipedia just now and would you believe it, it actually is all the same thing! How did I know this? It's astonishing how sometimes you can be talking out of your you-know-what, and you actually do get it right. Wow, I am shocked. Anyway, whatever you call it and however you found out about it, this tea is definitely a perfect drink to go along with your tamales. And I have to say, it's not too bad spiked with vodka or made into a white wine spritzer, either. Cheers!