Recipes for Abundance: Rat-tat-a-touille!

It’s 8:30 at night and I’ve just returned from work. There’s chicken juice inside my watchband, roast beef blood on my shoes and liverwurst bits down my shirt. But despite all that meaty nastiness (sorry, carnivores) I’m super hungry and have been ever since a tough workout early this morning. I see leftover oatmeal on the stove – the finale of a ‘backwards food day’ where dad fed the kids lunch for breakfast, dinner for lunch, and breakfast for dinner – but oatmeal just isn’t going to do the job.

So right now I’m thinking: it’s time to cook up a storm. A quick, tasty mess before I collapse for the night. Have you ever seen the PBS kids’ cartoon ‘Word World’? There’s this great little chant they always sing when it’s time to make a new word. “It’s time to build a word, let’s build it, let’s build it now!” Well, that’s the song in my head at this moment. “It’s time to make some food, let’s make it, let’s make it now!”

Between our own garden and the neighbor's farmstand down the road, our kitchen is brimming with vegetables - squash, beans, garlic, peppers, onions and tomatoes. With this in mind, what I’m aiming for tonight is a fast, easy ratatouille.

Ah, ratatouille: the simple vegetable stew that is invariably the only vegetarian-friendly item I can find to eat at fancy French restaurants. Well, there is also the cheese soufflé, but that dish always reminds me of a story for another day, one that involves the Champs Élysées on New Years' Eve, a tiny table squeezed next to a swinging kitchen door, a large statue against which people were throwing full bottles of champagne, and a bunch of drunk U.S. Marines, one of whom decided to steal a kiss and got punched for his audacity. Like I said, a story for another day. Besides, not being a big egg-lover, I'm not such a fan of cheese soufflés.

Anyway, by now I know how I like my ratatouille. I don't use the typical eggplant (I'm a weird vegetarian that way; I hate both eggplants and mushrooms). Also, my version it isn’t strictly French. French Mediterranean perhaps, with a nod to North Africa from the chickpeas and green olives, and sometimes there is an Italian flair, depending on what cheese I throw on top and whether I serve it over pasta. Tonight, after I’ve enjoyed this hearty veggie stew with a little parm grated on top, a crusty slice of bread, and a full-bodied glass of red wine, I know I’ll go to bed satisfied.

Note: The main thing which makes this veggie stew 'ratatouille' is basically the use of herbes de provence. Herbes de provence may not be something you’ll find in the spice aisle at your typical grocery store, but it’s worth a look. You could order it from Penzey’s and any French bakery might have some bags piled on a shelf near the back. To me, herbes de provence tastes quintessentially French. The hint of lavender, maybe? Or is it the savory? I first encountered this mixture years ago in Belgium when a friend’s father threw a several teaspoons into a thick soup meant to satisfy a hungry vegetarian backpacker. I was instantly hooked.

Not-So-Classic Ratatouille

Saute for about 5 minutes on medium heat in a large skillet:

olive oil
1 onion, rough chop
1 bell pepper, rough chop
1 clove garlic, minced

Add and cook 5 minutes more:

a handful of haricot verts (small green beans), topped - if using larger beans, remove strings and break in half
a heaping tablespoon herbes de provence, ground finely with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder
3 large tomatoes, chopped - even better, a 15-oz can whole tomatoes in juice, broken up with your hands or roughly cut with kitchen shears
1 medium zucchini, rough chop
1 medium yellow squash, rough chop

Stir in, then cover and turn heat to low, cooking for an additional 5 minutes:

a 15-oz can chick peas, drained and rinsed
½ cup green olives, pitted and sliced
salt and pepper to taste

To serve, sprinkle with cheese - grated Gruyere or parmesan reggiano. Have some good bread on hand for mopping it up. Ratatouille is good served the next day at room temp or even a bit chilled. It's also nice alongside or stuffed into an omelette if you're trying to hide the egg taste. :-) Bon appétit!

And to close, a few action photos highlighting our summer fun as of late...